When we were planning our 10 day trip, I was focused on getting to Koh Samui and planting myself on a beach. Matt had other ideas and the lure of a side trip to Myanmar was irresistible. Matt has spent a lot of time in Thailand, but Myanmar was a new destination. As it was only a 90 minute flight from Bangkok, we added two days in Yangon to our itinerary. So after a whirlwind 48 hours in Bangkok, we were off for a whirlwind 48 hours in Yangon.
I'll be the first to admit that we did Myanmar all wrong. Myanmar is not someplace to "squeeze into" a trip. Even among the exotic and enthralling countries of Southeast Asia, Myanmar, often called by it's colonial name of Burma, is unique. The surrounding countries of Thailand, China and India have tomes of modern travel stories dedicated to them. With a volatile history, the long-isolated nation of Myanmar has just recently opened up to foreign trade and private investment, as well as travelers and tourists.
To read about the political history of Myanmar is to read an epic tale of dictator and democracy. Starting in the 19th century, the area was "colonized" by Great Britain and incorporated into their Indian Empire, finally gaining independence from the UK in 1948. Within 15 years, Burmese General Ne Win staged a coup and set himself up as the leader of a socialist and isolationist regime.
In 1988, after years of civil unrest, he stepped down and within months the military took over, quashing the student-led protests. The military still has considerable control but after years of human rights abuses, international sanctions and pro-democracy protests, there has recently been a gradual process of liberalization and change. Just this year after decades of military rule, the first democratically elected President has been recognized.
Life is rapidly changing for the Burmese people. The outside world is now opening up to them and Myanmar is slowly opening up to the outside world. With a country going through such an important transition, it's an incredible time to visit. Yangon was once the capital, also known as Rangoon. The capital has now been moved but Yangon with its population of 6 million is the cultural and commercial heart of the country.
We flew into the International Airport with our crisp US notes (the preferred currency for visitors) in our pockets, not really sure what to expect. Our taxi driver was a glimpse of the new Myanmar. He was young and attractive, wearing a pristine, white buttoned-down shirt along with a traditional checkered longyi. The traditional dress for both men and women, it's a colorful tubular piece of material, similar to a sarong, worn knotted at the waist. On his wrist was a very nice vanity watch along with a beautiful Burmese beaded bracelet. His car was immaculate, just like his manners. He had two cell phones. In English, he welcomed us to Yangon, chatted with us and suggested places to visit.
The juxtaposition of our young driver taking us through the colonial city of Yangon was notable. If you are expecting the sky scrapers and motorbikes of a bustling Asian big city you would be mistaken. Yangon was once a fishing village that was transformed by British engineers and architects into a city of suburbs, parks and lakes along a grid pattern of streets. After several decades of socialist control, it is now a city of Colonial architecture largely in decay and an undeveloped infrastructure.
It is certainly a bustling city. The streets are dusty and dirty. The fumes of cars and buses are mixed in with a million other smells. But it's beautiful and unlike any other place you are likely to visit. Yangon is not yet set up for large numbers of tourists, which is one reason that now is a great time to go. Other than at the hotel, we didn't see many other Westerners. This did make things more challenging for us, especially as we had so little time. Matt was ready to just set off on foot and explore. If I'm honest, I was feeling a bit more out of my element. I felt perfectly safe. Yangon is probably one of the safest cities in the world (because of strict laws and harsh punishments). And the people were wonderful, open and friendly.
We ventured out one night for a traditional Burmese meal. After a bit of a struggle finding the right place we had a great dinner. No English menu on offer here, we just went up to a buffet counter and pointed at interesting looking dishes. Our table was then loaded up with rice, vegetables, sauces and various meat curries. In the tropical monsoon climate of Myanmar an ice cold local beer was a must. We also spent some time at a market and visited the incredible Shwedagon Pagoda (next post). But because of the heat and the lack of adequate research we nixed the ride on the Ring Train. Looking back, we should have hired a guide to help us navigate such an interesting city.
Because of the jet lag and feeling a bit overwhelmed by it all, once I experienced the gorgeous, exotic oasis that was our hotel, I didn't want to venture very far at all. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy which is a colonial boutique hotel. It was opened in 1995 and is privately owned. It was incredibly charming and the service was outstanding. You should expect to pay a little more for a hotel room in Yangon then you will in other cities in Southeast Asia.
Our room was huge and comfortable. We were greeted with a sweet, cold welcome drink and our room was supplied with fresh fruit and flowers each day. The decor is beautiful with hardwood floors and teak furniture. The small hotel is decorated with Burmese antiques, art and handicrafts. You can tell it is well loved and they are proud of their five-star status.
The hotel is on a busy road, but once you step inside everything is calm and quiet. We spent several glorious hours in this black marble pool in the courtyard. When the afternoon rain started we would sit under a colorful umbrella and have lunch. We were surrounded by fragrant flowers, birds and butterflies. I was in absolute heaven and Matt had to drag me away to get out and explore.
Each day strings of fresh jasmine were draped around the hotel. I had no idea how glorious fresh jasmine smells. Now whenever I smell Jasmine, I'm instantly back in Yangon. There is also a top rated restaurant at the hotel serving Asian fusion. On our last night we had a romantic dinner overlooking the glowing Shwedagon Pagoda which is the centerpiece of the city.
We really messed up on the last day when our alarm didn't go off. We were up and out of the hotel in record time. However, we didn't anticipate the 30 minute drive to the airport taking two hours because of traffic. For the first time ever we missed our flight (by just minutes). That is the worst feeling! We weren't getting much help on the phone with the airlines. Luckily, a staff member took pity and helped us get on the next plane out. He was a star and saved us years of marriage counseling. We eventually made it to Koh Samui and that beach I was so eager for.
We both realize that we didn't do Yangon, Myanmar right. We didn't give it enough time and planning. There is so much more to see and experience in the country. But I'm so thankful that we included it in our trip, even for such a short time. It is a very special place and it left a strong impression on me.
You'll notice that I don't have any street photos of Yangon. That's because I felt extremely conspicuous and rude walking around taking photos of people going about their everyday lives. Particularly as I was obviously a tourist and had a big honkin' camera in my hand. I always picture a group of tourist walking through my office sticking a camera in my face when I'm just minding my own business doing a bank reconciliation or something. Awkward.
How do you handle taking photos of random people when you travel?
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